Wednesday, August 7, 2013

How We Traveled: Chile

Planning on traveling around South America? Check out our plane and bus itineraries from Chile to see if it's right for you.

Regarding flights, it should be noted that my travel buddy flew separately out of Santiago. Therefore, I have provided flight details and costs for both of our itineraries to help anyone planning a trip from within South America or to/from Europe. This information should give you a general sense of costs and times, varying by departure location. 

FLIGHTS:

Route: Santiago (Chile) --> La Paz (Bolivia)
Layover?: Yes, one layover in Iquique (Chile) - 3 hours
Airline: LAN
Duration: 2.5 Hours
Price: $225 (booking made on studentuniverse.com)

Route: London (England) --> Lima (Peru)
                                       +
            Santiago (Chile) --> London (England)

Layover?: Yes, one layover in Madrid (Spain)
Airline: British Airways/Iberia
Duration: 14 hours there / 16 hours back
Price: £1100 = $1677

BUSES:

**While in-country and crossing the Peru/Chile border we only took buses and colectivos. If you have plans to travel within Peru and/or Chile, remember that the distance between destinations can be very far and long. Prices range depending how nice your bus is - all of our buses were fairly high quality, so cheaper (read: less dependable) travel options are available.**

Route: Tacna (Peru) --> Arica (Chile)
Bus Company: **colectivo**
Duration: 2 Hours, including customs/border control
Price (per person): 3,500 pesos = $7
Extra Tax?: No
Overnight?: No

Route: Arica (Chile) --> Iquique (Chile)
Bus Company: Pullman Santa Rosa
Duration: 5 Hours
Price (per person): 7,500 pesos = $15
Extra Tax?: Yes, 200 pesos per person
Overnight?: No

Route: Iquique (Chile) --> La Serena (Chile)
Bus Company: Tur Bus
Duration: 17 Hours
Price (per person): 32,000 pesos = $62
Extra Tax?: No
Overnight?: Yes

Route: La Serena (Chile) --> Santiago (Chile)
Bus Company: Ciktur
Duration: 6.5 Hours
Price (per person): 8,000 pesos = $16
Extra Tax?: No
Overnight?: Yes



Where We Stayed: Chile

**Note: This information pertains to a double room with two beds for each accommodation; prices for singles and larger rooms will vary. 

Websites have been provided when possible.

The breakfast offered at each of these locations is what we called a "South American Breakfast" and is not as comprehensive as an English or American breakfast. Usually this included bread, jam and coffee/tea/juice. Additional foods varied between hostels and included yoghurt, eggs and ham.**

City: Arica (Chile)
Lodging: Hotel Raissa
Cost (per night): 24,000 pesos = $48
Number of Nights: 1
Amenities: Breakfast, Cable TV, Private Bathroom
Staff Spoke English?: No

Notes: The staff at Hotel Raissa were extremely nice and very helpful. However, the room and bathroom were very small and the hot water did not work; the water pressure was so-so. Considering we did not have this problem anywhere else, we counted this as a line in the Con Column. 

Hotel Raissa is about a ten-minute walk into the small town center, where shops and restaurants line either side of the bustling pedestrian street. Arica is not very touristy and not very large, but it is the first town across the Chilean border and a common overnight stop for travelers. 

Overall, this hotel is good for a place to crash for the night, but nothing special. 


City: Iquique (Chile)
Lodging: Hotel Las Dunas
Website: http://www.hotellasdunas.cl/
Cost (per night): 36,000 pesos = $72
Number of Nights: 1
Amenities: Breakfast, Wireless Internet, Cable TV, Private Bathroom, Hair Dryer 
Staff Spoke English?: No

Notes: There is nothing particularly wrong with Hotel Las Dunas: the room was clean, the staff was friendly and helpful, the shower had hot water and great pressure, the television worked and breakfast was easy and simple. However, this hotel is extremely overpriced. In general, Chile is not cheap and Las Dunas was no exception; for a three-star accommodation in a small, non-tourist town we paid the same price as our hotel in Santiago. We didn't book a hotel for Iquique ahead of time, but if we had we likely would have booked elsewhere. 

This part of town (and Iquique in general) isn't very nice - it's safe enough, but not beautiful. If you stay at Hotel Las Dunas or anywhere in the neighborhood, you can walk down to the water in about 15 minutes, and there you will find an industrial shipping area. If you follow the path along the coastline you find the commercial (read: pretty) beaches where locals hang out, swim and surf. There is no real "town center" in Iquique, but the main attractions and businesses follow the ocean coast, more or less.

However, Hotel Las Dunas is about five blocks from the Tur Bus station, which was very convenient; we skipped paying for a taxi and were able to carry our things easily from the hotel to the station. 


City: Santiago (Chile)
Lodging: Nomades Hostel
Website: http://nomadeshostel.cl/wp/
Cost (per night): $70
Number of Nights: 2 nights
Amenities: Breakfast, Wireless Internet, Cable TV, Private Bathroom
Staff Spoke English?: Yes

Notes: We arrived at Nomades Hostel at approximately 7 in the morning, straight off the bus from La Serena. Cold and exhausted, we were slightly peeved by the fact that the woman on night-duty failed to respond to our knocking and bell-ringing for a solid 20 minutes. However, after we were let in we were allowed to check-in and crash in our room hours earlier than anticipated. The owner later apologized for the inconvenience and he even prepared an extra portion of breakfast for us. 

Nomades Hostel is located away from the town center in a neighborhood called Bellavista. Despite multiple warnings that the area was dangerous or "not the nicest", we encountered no issues and never felt unsafe walking around at night. The walk into town is easy (about 45 minutes) and takes you past markets and parks, across the bridge and along the river. 

On your way into town you can stop by the Bellavista market square which houses an abundance of restaurants and small souvenir shops. A little further down the street (closer to the bridge) there is a second set of stalls where you can purchase gifts for friends and family. This area is a seven-minute walk from the hostel. 


The owner of Nomades answered all of our questions, sorted us out with a walking tour and arranged our early-morning cab pick-up on the day we flew out. The hostel has a communal kitchen which the staff encouraged us to use freely for whatever we needed. 

Friday, August 2, 2013

Photo Blog: Chile

A collection of highlights from the Chilean coast all the way down to Santiago!

$659 Chilean pesos for a kilo of red apples (manzanas rojas) in Arica.
The exchange rate in Chile is 500 pesos to the American dollar. 

One of the commercial beaches in Iquique with the city skyline behind it.
About a mile down the coast you'll find the less-pristine industrial shipyard beaches.


A tres leches (three milks) cone and a La Serena sunset. ¡Perfecto!

Street art in La Serena, It says "Neither their church nor their laws will
prevent homosexuals from loving each other. Wake up."

A view from Río Mapocho, a river that divides Santiago in two and is
decorated by an array of local street art. 

Here is a closer look at some street art along the river. The two signs say
"The awakening of the workers" and "The Age/The Century".

Men playing chess in Plaza de Armas in Santiago.

A colorful market stall selling an array of children's toys on the street
in Santiago.

Cracks left in a Santiago building by the 2010 earthquake. Smaller earthquakes
have become so common in Chile that they named a drink after them. The drink
is call terremoto; smaller versions are sold as 'aftershocks'. 

A view of the Andes Mountains (Los Andes) from Cousino Macul Viña,
a family-owned and operated vineyard outside of Santiago.

The empty grape vines at Concha y Toro Viña, which produces more wine than any other
South American vineyard. Its cellars are said to be haunted by el diablo - the devil. 

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

How We Traveled: Perú

Planning on traveling around South America? Check out our plane and bus itineraries from Perú to see if it's right for you.

Regarding flights, it should be noted that my travel buddy and I flew separately and met up in Lima. Therefore, I have provided flight details and costs for both of our itineraries to help anyone planning a trip from within South America or from Europe. This information should give you a general sense of costs and times, varying by departure location, airline, etc. 

FLIGHTS:

Route: La Paz (Bolivia) --> Lima (Peru)
Layover?: No
Airline:  Taca
Duration: 2 Hours
Price: $300 (booking made on studentuniverse.com)

**Note: Passengers on international flights out of Bolivia are charged a $25 airport tax fee. This is NOT included in your ticket cost and will be paid at the airport prior to entering security.**

Route: London (England) --> Lima (Peru)
                                       +
            Santiago (Chile) --> London (England)

Layover?: Yes, one layover in Madrid (Spain)
Airline: British Airways/Iberia
Duration: 14 hours there / 16 hours back
Price: £1100 = $1677

BUSES:

**While in-country and crossing the Peru/Chile border we only took buses and colectivos. If you have plans to travel within Peru and/or Chile, remember that the distance between destinations can be very far and long. Prices range depending how nice your bus is; all of our buses were fairly high quality, so cheaper (read: less dependable) travel options are available.**

Route: Lima (Peru) --> Cusco (Peru)
Bus Company: Cruz del Sur
Duration: 23 Hours
Price (per person): 185 soles = $66
Extra Tax?: No
Overnight?: Yes

Route: Cusco (Peru) --> Arequipa (Peru)
Bus Company: Cruz del Sur
Duration: 10 hours
Price (per person): 135 soles = $48
Extra Tax?: No
Overnight?: Yes

Route: Arequipa (Peru) --> Tacna (Peru)
Bus Company: Tepsa
Duration: 6 hours
Price (per person): 20 soles = $7
Extra Tax?: Yes, 5 soles per person
Overnight?: No

Route: Tacna (Peru) --> Arica (Chile)
Bus Company: **colectivo**
Duration: 2 Hours, including customs/border control
Price (per person): 3,500 pesos = $7
Extra Tax?: No
Overnight?: No

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Where We Stayed: Perú

**Note: This information pertains to a double room with two beds for each accommodation; prices for singles and larger rooms will vary. 

Websites have been provided when possible.

The breakfast offered at each of these locations is what we called a "South American Breakfast" and is not as comprehensive as an English or American breakfast. Usually this included bread, jam and coffee/tea/juice. Additional foods varied between hostels and included yoghurt, eggs and ham.**

City: Lima (Peru)
Lodging: B&B Miraflores Wasi
Cost (per night): $50
Number of Nights: 3
Amenities: Breakfast, Wireless Internet, Cable TV, Private Bathroom, Laundry Service
Staff Spoke English?: Yes

Notes: This hotel is on Calle Tarapaca, a side street off of the much larger (and fairly busy) Avenida Arequipa; the walk the center of the Miraflores District is only 20 minutes. There is a small cafe next door to the B&B and a handful of places to eat within walking distance. There is also a small market store one block up and a large supermarket at the corner of Tarapaca and Arequipa. Huaca Pucllana is just two blocks away and sits adjacent to a small park. 

Miraflores Wasi is small but comfortable, however the front rooms on the lower level can get noisy because they are nearby the lobby, the stairs and the courtyard. 

The staff was exceptionally helpful and courteous. 

This hotel included a 5% surcharge for using a credit card as payment.


City: Cusco (Peru)
Lodging: Monte Horeb B&B
Website: http://www.hostel-cusco.com/
Cost (per night): $43
Number of Nights: 2
Amenities: Breakfast, Wireless Internet, Cable TV, Private Bathroom, Laundry Service
Staff Spoke English?: Yes

Notes: One major downside to this hotel was their cash-only policy. We booked our room online prior to our trip and used a credit card to hold the reservation, but when we checked in we were told we had to pay in cash. The hotel accepts dollars and soles. 

The room was a little chilly, but we were offered a heater which made things much cozier. Monte Horeb has a strange policy that disallows guests from washing and hanging their clothes in the bathroom and they encourage you to utilize their laundry service. The price is 5 soles per kilo (approximately $1 per pound) and delivery of clean clothes is the same day. There are also cleaners in town that can wash and fold laundry in two or four hours, if you are in a time crunch.  

The B&B is just up the street from Plaza Regocijo and a 5-minute walk from the main town square (Plaza de Armas). Staff was kind and offered dining/tour tips.

This hotel is located in a fairly secluded courtyard and many locals (including taxi drivers) were not familiar with it. Make sure to give the full address when describing this location.

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Photo Blog: Perú

A collection of some of my favorite photos from Perú. ¡Disfrutar!

The Temple of the Sun at the Pachacamac ruins, located about 40 km
southeast of Lima. The Moche and the Huari people were two of the
many pre-Incan civilizations to worship here.  

The Peruvian hairless dog - these are considered to be the ugliest dogs in the world.
Don't worry; we showed them some love! 

View of Pacific Coast in Lima.

Peruvian street art in Lima. 

Some fruits and veg in the local market in Lima. We can here
with our tour guide to gather ingredients for the famous
Pisco Sour drink (see below

Peru's famous Pisco Sours are made with pisco, simple syrup,
fresh-squeeze limes and egg white. Ingredients are shaken
vigorously over ice and topped with bitters for garnish.


Sunrise in Cusco



The official flag of Incan culture and history.


Machu Picchu, arguably the most iconic Incan site in the world.
The name Machu Picchu (Machupichu) comes from the Quechua
words meaning Old Mountain.


A shot of the Machu Picchu ruins through
some very well-maintained plant life.

Saturday, June 22, 2013

I'll Procrastinate...Tomorrow

If I have learned one thing living in - ahem - developing countries (their preferred terminology), it's that the things you want and need aren't always as accessible as they are at home. That doesn't mean that developing nations are deprived in any way, it just means that your hot water heater might break more often than it would living in New York City. It also means that the someone who can fix that heater for you is a tad harder to track down and hold accountable.

No matter how you slice it, some places come with their fair share of so-called "Third-World-Problems", and these are the decisions we make when we move or travel to faraway lands.

I experienced this re-revelation (one we tend to forget quickly when things are back to "normal") when I moved out of a friend's guest room and into the bottom floor of a large house shared with three other women. The former residence had proved full of nuisances for which my first-world palate was unaccustomed: shoddy internet, no washing machine, a less-than-spotless kitchen and - the greatest tragedy of all - hot water that came and went as it pleased. Now, most of these detractions I can live with, and despite being as internet-dependent as the next person, I would gladly trade time on Facebook for my daily hot shower.

Anyone who knows me well knows that I appreciate having a space to myself where I can retreat from the world as well as other people; having been deprived of that privacy as well as my scrub-and-soak time, I was not the happiest of campers. These, among other reasons (such as proximity to work), led me to go looking for a new abode to call my own.

And after I found one, how I longed for the month to end so I could venture forth, unpack my towel and rack up a nice, high water bill.

To my utmost dismay, I was instead greeted into my new residence by a stream of frigid water. How haughtily it poured from the shower head, refusing to warm as it had promised. "Why, God, why???" I cried aloud, falling to my knees. "Will I never enjoy the warmth of a steamy hot shower again?" (Okay…perhaps an exaggeration, but I was pretty pissed).

I knew all I had to do was tell my new housemates (who lived upstairs) about my predicament. However, two things held me back: first, I wasn't quite confident in my ability to explain the situation properly, what with my sub-par Spanish and their lack of English; second, when I had had similar problems in my previous living arrangement, my concerns had gone unnoticed and it had only created tension. Hoping to avoid a repeat offense, I bit my tongue and alternated employing the jump-in-jump-out method with the occasional hot shower at friend's apartment - all the while praying to the hot water gods to forgive whatever sin I had committed and magically restore my showers to me.

Alas, my memo to the water gods must have gotten lost in the shuffle and the hot water never came back. So, after three weeks, I plucked up the courage (and a translator) and brought my issue forth to the powers-that-be. And what happened? The girl apologized, said the heater must be broken and that they would bring someone in to fix it the next day. And they did.

Problem solved, just like that. I've had hot water ever since and now my biggest showering problem is finding that elusive balance between too hot and too cold.

I suppose the moral of the story is twofold. Not only should we all be aware of our self-destructive procrastination, but we would be doing ourselves a big favor by forgoing the concept of "I'll get to it tomorrow." Having a cold shower might not be the end-all and be-all of lifetime hardships, but if you can do something about it, then why put it off? A task easier said than done, of course, but to at least put forth the effort to change our hardwired habits is a start. And who knows? Maybe when you finally get around to that epic list of "Things I Want To Do" something great and unexpected will come out of it.

In addition to the anti-procrastination advice, I suggest this: take advantage of what you have when you have it. You never know when the proverbial hot water heater will break down, and the chances we lose rarely come back for a do-over. So just go out and do it: enjoy that hot shower while it's there; take that new job even though it scares the hell out of you; tell the person you like how you feel about them (unless they're with someone else - don't be that guy). In most cases, we genuinely have nothing to lose and - cliche alert - everything to gain. 

But who am I to lecture you on promptness and carpe diem? After all, I told myself this post would be up three weeks ago.