Friday, November 1, 2013

Oruro: Buses, Hostels and Restaurants

I recently took a mini-vacation out of Cochabamba. Many of the country's hot-spot cities are set rather far apart, but all major cities are easily accessible by bus. Oruro is a 4 hour drive from Cbba, but if your bus makes a lot of stops or hits traffic it may take 4 1/2 to 5 hours. 

Here is some basic information about my trip to Oruro: how I got there and back, where I stayed and where I ate. If you are planning on visiting Oruro, this will be a good guide for your stay. 


Buses


Route: Cochabamba --> Oruro
Company: Naser
Cost: Bs. 25 for a semi-cama seat
Time: 4 hours and 40 minutes

This bus left a little late (10.17 instead of 10 a.m.), but the semi-cama seat was very comfortable and once we were on the road we made good time. The price was also very good for this service and trip length. The only hiccoughs were when one of the drivers jumped off the moving bus to buy a watermelon (and subsequently jumped back on the still-moving bus), and when a herd of donkeys slowed our progress along one of the roads. Other than that - smooth sailing.



I definitely recommend Naser buses. 

** The Cochabamba bus terminal charges a tax of bs. 2.50 for all outbound journeys. Tickets can be bought separately at a kiosk near the front entrance. **

Route: Oruro --> Cochabamba 
Company: Trans-Azul
Cost: Bs. 30 for a normal seat
Time: 5 hours

I switched bus companies on the way back to Cbba because Naser did not have a 5 p.m. bus scheduled. This bus left right on time and the seat was reasonably comfortable, however it was a little overpriced for a non-cama seat. Normally buses in Bolivia have their "regular" seats upstairs and their semi-cama or cam seats downstairs; however, I do not believe this particular bus had a bottom floor. That meant that only regular seats were available. Additionally, this bus insisted on playing music and then movies, which I personally dislike on a bus trip. The music was far too loud and was stopped and started over again four times; then a movie was put in, and that was stopped and started three times before the driver settled on 'World War Z' in Spanish, without subtitles. Afterward they showed 3/4 of a 'Fast and Furious' installment, also in Spanish and without subtitles. This bus made more stops than usual and the trip took a full five hours. 

I would not recommend this bus company. 

** The Oruro bus terminal charges a tax of bs. 1.50 for all outbound journeys. Tickets can be bought separately at the door to the bus dock, so be prepared to have your change ready alongside your ticket. **


Hostel


Name: Hostel Graciela / Explorer's Inn
Cost: Bs. 60 per person, per night
Address: Calle Herrera #47, between 6 de Agosto and Bacovick
Amenities: Private rooms, En-suite bathroom, Hot Water, Free Breakfast, Free Wi-fi, TV in Room, Great Staff

Seeing that I was a solo traveler with a limited budget and only planned to stay one night in Oruro, I chose to go the cheapest route possible. Hostel Graciela is a fairly small hostel, but it offers two floors of private and group rooms, plus a breakfast room on the third floor. The free breakfast was typically South American: coffee and tea, yoghurt and bread. The room and bathroom were small, but clean, and the shower had very hot water. The wi-fi was not working during my stay, but I believe it usually does. The TV worked just fine and had 90 or so channels to choose from; I even found a news channel in English (CNN), which I appreciated. 

The clientele at Hostel Graciela ranged from young backpackers to full families, but the atmosphere was neither rowdy nor loud. I also managed to get to know two fellow travelers (24-year-old man and woman from England) and we spent the day seeing the sights of Oruro together. I felt very comfortable at Hostel Graciela and was not uneasy about interacting with the staff or the other travelers. 

The staff was very helpful and the younger staff spoke English. I would recommend this hostel as a cheap, comfortable place to crash for a few nights in Oruro. 

** Heads up: The staff at Hostel Graciela will take your picture outside of the hostel upon your departure. They use these for their Facebook page. **


Restaurants


Name: Bravo's Grill
Address: Calle Montesinas
Hours: 4 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. )Wednesday - Saturday) and noon 3 p.m. (Sunday)
Price Range: Bs. 35-72 per main dish


I enjoyed my dinner at Bravo's Grill in Oruro. The young woman at the desk in my hostel gave me directions to two different restaurants, one of which had been shut down and the other no one had heard of. So, I was stuck wandering around Oruro at 8 at night and stumbled across Bravo's Grill. 

The menu was fairly small, but comprehensive: A la Parilla (From the Grill), A la Carta, Pasta, Piqué (Small Dishes), Pescados y Mariscos (Fish and Seafood) and a complementary salad bar. The atmosphere was very quiet and low-key, especially for a saturday night (8.30-9.30) and most tables were couples. 

The waitress presented all drinks and the check on a small silver platter, which added a nice touch of class. She was very friendly and helpful regarding food and drink choices. 

Wine can be bought by the glass or by the bottle, and bottles of local wines (Campos de Solana) are offered in 375 ml or 750 ml portions. A 375 ml bottle of Campos de Solana runs about bs. 50, while a glass costs bs. 25; the wine glasses at Bravo's Grill are fairly small, so if you plan to have more than one glass you are better off getting a bottle. The pasta portions were huge (see below), although my waitress described them as "normal".

I took my leftovers back to the hostel


I would recommend Bravo's Grill for dinner in Oruro.

Name: Confitería Center
Price Range: Bs. 6-11 per small dishes; Bs. 50 per main dish

Confitería Center is nothing special, however, it was one of the only restaurants open at 1 in the afternoon. The menu includes empanadas, sandwiches and full plates. The sandwiches were not very large, but were tasty and filling. This restaurant also serves more "classic Bolivian" dishes, including Pique Macho.

The restaurant itself was pretty empty and service was, well…Bolivian. The only beer offered here was Huari, which is brewed in Oruro, and the only size was a liter bottle (bs. 16). Soft drinks and water were also available.



I would recommend Confitería Center if you are having trouble finding food elsewhere. 


** It should be noted that Oruro is not packed with restaurants and (in true Bolivian style) many are closed at random times of the day. I suggest finding a list of restaurants before you travel so you can be better prepared - and not starve. **



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